1teaspoonkosher saltdivided, plus more for the pasta water
½teaspoonblack pepper
2medium leekswhite and light green parts only, thinly sliced
3garlic clovesminced
1teaspoonfresh thyme leaves
¼teaspoonred pepper flakesoptional
½cupdry white wine
½cupheavy cream
½cupfinely grated Parmesan cheeseplus more for serving
½ to 1cupreserved pasta wateras needed
Instructions
Prepare the leeks. Place the sliced leeks in a bowl of cold water and gently separate the layers with your hands. Allow any dirt to settle at the bottom, then lift the leeks from the water and pat dry.
Cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta until just shy of al dente according to package directions. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water, then drain.
Brown the mushrooms. While the pasta cooks, heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms in an even layer. Cook without stirring for 3 to 4 minutes to allow them to brown. Add ½ teaspoon salt and the black pepper. Continue cooking for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are deeply browned and any released liquid has evaporated. Transfer the mushrooms to a plate.
Cook the leeks. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the sliced leeks to the skillet. Season with the remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are soft and beginning to caramelize. Add the butter, garlic, thyme, and red pepper flakes, if using. Cook for 30 seconds, stirring frequently.
Deglaze the skillet. Pour in the white wine and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the wine has reduced by about half. Reduce the heat to low. Stir in the heavy cream and ¼ cup reserved pasta water. Bring the sauce to a gentle simmer.
Finish the pasta. Return the mushrooms to the skillet. Add the drained pasta and toss until coated. Gradually stir in the Parmesan cheese. Continue tossing the pasta over low heat, adding more reserved pasta water a few tablespoons at a time, until the sauce is glossy and coats the pasta.
Serve. Divide the pasta among bowls. Top with additional Parmesan, black pepper, and chopped parsley, if desired.
Notes
Use any combination of cremini, shiitake, oyster, maitake, or other wild mushrooms. For an affordable blend, use 8 ounces cremini mushrooms and 8 ounces mixed wild mushrooms.
Avoid overcrowding the skillet when cooking the mushrooms. Use a wide skillet or cook them in two batches so they brown instead of steam.
Rigatoni, mezzi rigatoni, casarecce, or orecchiette all work well.
Grate the Parmesan finely so it melts smoothly into the sauce.
Keep the heat low when adding the Parmesan to prevent the sauce from becoming grainy.
The sauce will thicken as it sits. Add a splash of reserved pasta water before serving if needed.
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